Since I was on a limited schedule I could not take the time I normally would to plot out every section of the piece. I’m proud of it, but I think I went in to many directions color-wise. I like to keep my palate limited. The NMM bronze did not come out fully to my liking either but I’ve yet to master that technique. If I could go back in time I would do the sword in a lava theme to tie the Prince to the base.
All nitpicking aside, I really had a blast painting this mini for my hobby shop. GW has outdone itself with this new kit.
For my Birthday last year my wife bought me two Forgeworld (FW) models I’ve been eyeing for a long time. The Great Spined Beast and the Khornate Demon Prince. Since I’ve had these models for so long I decided to paint one up for this Warriors of Chaos army project and use him as a Shaggoth.
Now I’m not an expert on Warhammer Fantasy history but I have no memory of the use of the term Shaggoth to represent a monster since GW attributed it to a large Dragon Ogre back in the 6th edition Beastmen army book. For my army, the term Shaggoth will characterize any large unnamed monster from the Chaos Wastes.
Great Spined Shaggoth – Done and done!
Dragon Ogre Shaggoth – Owned but needs a new paintjob
Great Spawn Shaggoth – (Aiming to get this for Christmas)
Not quite as Lovecraftian as some would like, but it’s a close as I can get.
I made the base from Acrylic Sheet. (More on this method to come…)
I’ve been a user of Citadel Paints and brushes for the entirety of my hobby life. Over the years I have found myself drifting away from GW’s line of hobby products. My standards have evolved and as such I’ve come to expect more out of the supplies I purchase. Other then GW’s new Citadel Washes/Foundations and the occasional bottle of superglue there is very little from them I use at all. Mini’s aside of course.
A few years back, a fellow hobbyist inquired if I had tried Vallejo acrylic line. Having not even heard of it he pointed me towards Granddad’s Hobby Shop (RIP) and told me to check them out. I picked up a bottle of Cobra Leather and Bonewhite and I was floored by their performance. In fact I still own and use those 2 bottles of paint I bought back in ’06!
One of the biggest gripes I have with GW paint pots is the tendency they have of drying out. There was nothing that pissed me off more than opening a bottle of paint I used one time a few months back to find it filled with colored plastic. The new bottle caps have done wonders for slowing down this process exponentially but it still occurs. The Vallejo bottles have a nigh air-tight seal that has kept my paints in perfect condition for years.
The texture of these paints is their most impressive quality. They go on smoothly, coat well, and dry with a nice finish. The Game Color line tends to have a slightly glossy sheen to it that I’ve grown less fond of but if you use GW paints you won’t notice really. I’ve taken a fancy to their model color line as they dry with a flat matte finish.
Ease of Use
The bottles are designed for you to squeeze out as much as you need onto the palette. This has also contributed to the longevity of my paints as I only use what I need. You do need to be careful to check the top to ensure that no paint has dried in the top as you can squeeze the whole top off the bottle and paint will get everywhere. This should not happen though as the application tips are pretty secure and you would have to be squeezing pretty hard.
Vallejo’s Game Color mimics GW’s paint line almost color for color and shade for shade. They also still have the colors that GW has discontinued. Colors like Bilious Green, Midnight Blue, Imperial Purple, and my personal favorites Terracotta and Tanned Flesh all have equivalent colors. Why GW discontinued Terracotta and Tanned Flesh is completely beyond me. Those 2 colors are SOOO versatile and should be on every painter’s desk.
In conclusion, I give this paint line 4/5 glavens. I can’t really give the line 5 glavens as I don’t think any paint of that caliber even exists. Give this excellent line a try though you may begin to catch yourself staring at those old GW pots with contempt.
Of all the tools I have collected over the years for this hobby of mine I have to say my Dremel is the most important. I use this tool so damn much it has caused me to purchase 3.
The uses I have found for this tool are legion. Need to grind something down? There’s a bit for that. Need to saw something off? There’s a bit for that. Need to hollow something out? There’s a bit for that. Need to polish something smooth? There’s a bit for that. Want to etch something on something? There’s a bit for that. And I’m just scratching the surface of all the functions this tool can perform.
A word on safety. Be sure to wear eye protection when using this or any power tool. Dremels can rotate upwards to 35,000 rpm and though you should never have to use that type of speed for hobby work you need to be really careful. Flinging molten metal at 10,000 rpm into your eye would be well…bad.
Most of the time I use my Dremel for metal work. You should not use your sanding drum or cutting wheels on plastics. Styrene and other hobby plastics have a very low melting point and the lowest rpm setting will be enough to burn or melt them. This process will get melted plastic all over the abrasive sections of your sanding/cutting bits and can render them useless after one job. The engraving/ carving tools will not have this problem.
This bit will grind through soft mini metal faster than you will believe. Take your time and keep a pot of water nearby and dip the mini into it from time to time to cool it down. You should not need to go above 10k rpm but if you do, be sure to dip the mini more often.
Cut-off Wheel, Diamond Wheel
It’s like using a jewelers saw that functions in a fraction of the time. Again be sure to keep that water on hand to disperse some of that heat.
High Speed Cutter
My favorite. I love to use this bit to replace the heads on metal minis. Use your side cutters to cut off most of it and then use this tool to hollow out a depression for your new head. Just one use of this and you’ll fall in love as I did.
Pros – Small, easy to use, and perfect for small projects.
Cons – Being battery operated, I found that it tended to be low on power at inopportune moments and I would need to plug it in to recharge. It’s my fault really for not charging it after every major use but I get so absorbed in the project I just forgot.
Pros – Replaced my MiniMite as my primary tool. It’s corded so it’s always ready. No charging necessary.
Cons – This tool can get to VERY high rpm so you need to be careful. Also the cord can get in the way sometimes but you’ll get used to that quickly.
~Note~ Apparently this corded version of the Multi-Pro is currently out of production. You can likely still find it if you look hard enough. I believe it’s replacement is the Dremel 4000.
Pros – Perfect tool for engraving and drilling. I use this tool for all my pining work and it’s wonderful. I’ve yet to use it for engraving but do I have future plans for that specific function.
Cons – None as of yet. This baby sits on my painting desk in its charger most of the time so I’ve yet to experience a dead battery.
Where to Buy
I got my MiniMite and Stylus from my neighborhood Lowes. The Mulit-Pro was procured from Amazon.com at a nigh criminal bargain. I recommend you get your bits from Lowes or any other hardware shop so you can see them up close.
Well I think I’ve prattled on long enough. The Dremel receives 4/5 glavens for exceptional usefulness. Get this tool, you will not be disappointed.
I’ve seen this technique on several sites and I’ve noticed that people are having trouble replicating it. Some sources require that you locate and use bicarbonate of soda instead of baking soda because the former does not fizz up as much. They are the same thing people, Sodium bicarbonate. The reason I’ve found that separates success from fizzy failure is active vs. stale bicarbonate.
I am no chemist, but as far as I understand, baking soda that has been sitting around too long or has been kept in warm or damp places will lose its carbon dioxide making it closer to sodium carbonate or washing soda/soda ash. The trick to this technique is you need stale baking soda.
When I first tried this basing technique, I was fortunate enough to have an old box of Arm & Hammer (A&H) sitting in my pantry. It had been used once, but I have no clue how long it had dwelled there awaiting its true calling.
I will experiment with this method using a fresh box of A&H vs. a box that I’ve staled and post it as an addendum to this tutorial. I need to make sure I know what I’m talking about because we all know that there be R-Tards out there scouring the interwebs for ill-informed articles to correct. So stay tuned.
Anyway, here’s a rundown on making your bases appear like your army marches through a land gripped by a harsh winter. It’s really quite easy.
Here’s what you’ll need:
Small mixing cup (a box of Dixie Cups would be perfect)
White PVA glue
Shallow plastic container
Soft bristled paint brush
Step I: Squirt a measure of PVA ( I used white Elmer’s Glue All) into your mixing cup. I filled the bottom of my Dixie cup about 1/4th of an inch.
Step II: Grab your teaspoon and add a spoonful of baking soda to your glue.
Step III: Grab your sculpting tool and stir. It will ball up on the side of your cup at first but as the soda becomes saturated with PVA it will settle down on the bottom of the cup like a thick paste.
Add PVA till you get a smooth thick paste with stiff peaks. You will know you have the right mixture when the paste turns damp and shiny when allowed to settle. This quality is required for Step V so be sure it’s mixed well.
Step IV: With the flat end of your sculpting tool scoop your paste onto the base and a position it as you see fit. If it was made to the right consistency it will level out some but won’t spread off your base.
Step V: This is the most important step!Place your base into the shallow container and cover it with several heaping teaspoons of baking soda. Make sure the entire base is covered. Set your container aside and let it dry.
You need to allow the PVA plenty of time to dry before moving on to the final step. I don’t handle my bases for at least 5 hours to allow complete drying time. That may seem like overkill but trust me, if you move onto the next step with the PVA still damp you are going to be royally pissed off when it does dry. The damp quality needed in Step III is what makes this technique look so cool when it’s done. As the PVA dries it absorbs more soda onto its surface. This process continues until the glue is completely dried. Removing the excess soda while the PVA is still moist can cause the base to cure with a glossy texture and your base will appear to be covered in white slime. So set them up and go to bed, visit some friends, knit a quilt, anything just leave the damn bases alone.
Step VI: Knock off the excess soda into your drying container and dust off the remaining soda with your brush. And you’re done! The soda even sparkles in light like real fresh snow. Pretty damn cool eh? You can still use that soda from your drying box so don’t discard it!
A model’s base is the one part that can make or break a project. I’ve seen many great minis ruined by a sub-par base, and just as many average paint jobs elevated by an excellent display base. Try to put as much thought into your basing as you do your project and you really can’t go wrong.
Hazard Stripes are a requirement to complete the look of an Iron Warriors Army. They are surprisingly easy to do, and they look great everywhere, especially on chain swords, power fists, and bolters. This technique takes a carful hand so take your time.
Here’s what you‘ll need:
Chaos Black, Vomit Brown, Golden Yellow, Sunburst Yellow, Skull White paints (GW)
Fine Detail Brush
Step I: Paint the area you want the stripes to be black. Next paint on several diagonal stripes in Vomit Brown. Keep the lines as straight as possible. If you mess up, just clean it up with black.
Step II: Using Golden Yellow, paint a highlight stripe onto the Vomit Brown stripe but don’t cover it up all up.
Step III: Now using Sunburst Yellow, paint another highlight stripe on top of your Golden Yellow.
Step IV: Using Skull White, paint a fine line at the very edge of the hazard stripe bar on the Sunburst Yellow highlight you did in step 3.
Step V: Now using Codex Grey, paint a fine line on your black stripes. That’s it!
Back when I owned this army I received quite a few inquiries on how I painted my Iron Warriors. To answer all of your questions I have decided to make this my first painting tutorial. Click on the image thumbnails for a better view.
Before I get started I would like take some time and inform you on proper priming. The most important rule on priming is to never prime miniatures on rainy or humid days. Repeat this line ad nauseum!!! Moisture gets on your mini when it’s humid outside, you may not be able to see it, but it’s there. That moisture gets caught between the mini and the primer, and when it dries your miniature will look like it’s been sprayed in fine black or white sand. Getting that stuff off is a real pain, so save yourself some heartache and only prime during the proper weather conditions. That being said, let’s move on.
Now I used to use Future floor wax for this tutorial, but with the release of GW’s (Game Workshop) Citadel Washes that noxious mess is no longer required. Mixing Future into your washes, rather than straight water, breaks up the water’s surface tension and causes the pigment in your paints and inks to settle and dry properly in the recesses of the model, rather than on the surface of your miniature. While useful, Future does come with some problems:
I. Future leaves your minis coated in a medium to heavy gloss depending on how much you use. The gloss is also pretty resilient and will act as a protective varnish for your minis, but I’m not a fan of polished models on the tabletop.
II. Future is toxic if ingested. Many hobbyists out there like to lick their brushes after washing them off to reestablish a nice brush tip. That habit is easy to forget and can make you sick when using Future. If you use that stuff PLEASE be careful to not ingest any or leave it in a place where family/pets could get into it.
Since we are using GW products with this tutorial we don’t have to worry about ingesting toxins and gaining all those cool superpowers the following morning. All that said, let’s get started!
Step I: After the black prime has dried, it’s time to basecoat the minis in Boltgun Metal with your airbrush. I suggest you check out my tutorial on Airbrushing and practice on some old unused minis to get this technique down before starting on your precious traitor marines. A complete coat is important for this step so make sure no black is showing. Don’t forget your pistols/guns!
Use your gloves for steps 2&3. That is unless you like shiny silver fingers…
Step II: Wet-brush (just like dry-brushing but keep more paint on the brush) your minis with Mithril Silver using your Tank Brush, and let them dry. Just like in Step I, a complete coat is very important. The washing in Step III relies on total coverage.
Step III: After the silver has dried it’s time to apply the wash (GW Badab Black). The new Citadel Washes from GW are pretty damn useful. They pool in the recesses and when they dry you’ll find all your joint shading done all at once. Another fine quality of these washes is that they can be used right out of the pot with no watering down. You’ll want to use a brush that can hold a lot of wash so you can do your mini’s assembly line style to save time. You can find some nice cheap soft bristle bushes from Michaels Arts and Crafts.
The only negative I’ve found with these washes is the time it takes them to dry. You’ll have to wait around 30 minutes or so for the model to dry naturally. I have a halogen lamp on my desk that trims the drying time down a bit but it still takes my minis at lest 10-15 minutes. Make sure they are completely dry before moving on to the next step.
Step IV: Pick out the detail of the mini with Shining Gold. Hit the trim on the greaves, shoulder pads, chest, belt, backpack, pistol/gun detail, and helmet. Now grab your Sepia wash. Use a detail brush to paint the wash onto the gold trim being careful not to get any on your newly dried iron armor. It gives the gold a very ‘rich’ look I am quite fond of.
Step V: Paint interior of the shoulder pads, the spots between his armor plates (backs of the knees and such), tubing, helmet, and sides of your pistols/guns in Chaos Black, then paint any horns with Beastial Brown. Highlight the horns with Bleached Bone. Now it’s time to make these guys into real Iron Warriors: it’s Hazard Stripe Time!
After the stripes, apply your decals and you are done! Base your minis, and give them their weapons, it’s time to slay the lackeys of the Corpse Emperor! “Iron Within! Iron Without!
This was the first large model I have ever painted. For years I avoided large projects because I was afraid I lacked the skill to do them justice. I had so much fun with this model I grew a rather crippling enjoyment for character models. ~DO YOUR CHARACTERS LAST!~
With the new Fateweaver model en route from GW in August I decided to rebase him for my WoC army and use him as a Demon Prince of Tzeentch. The minimalist theme I’ve been using for the bases in this army really works well with red heavy models.